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red epic issue with ab hot-swap?


RonBaldwin

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"Actually, the Alexa model being different is purely mechanical."

 

No. The Alexa one also passes battery info to the viewfinder. I've also been told that it has a higher amperage breaker.

Hmm. AbelCine(I forget who I talked to...) left that part out.

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Ron have you checked the fuses inside the plates?

 

I know that on my twin v-lock plates when a fuse went they wouldn't run in parallel for some reason, only series.

 

Worth a look and the fuses don't cost a lot to replace from memory.

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Me thinks the Epic might have had older firmware. I had a lot of problems with them shutting down last summer on a 3D job when powered from the sled (and always after 20 minutes or so!). The next week a new firmware came out addressing this (as well as other stuff) and I had no problems the next time out. But, I've only seen that camera once or twice since.

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Epic body only nominally draws 60 watts. I had problems with older rental house Sony v-lock lithium batteries that crapped out after about 20 minutes, but newly recelled Dionic 90 performed just fine. Also shutdown problems when powering up a Bartech receiver on the Zephyr sled after the camera was already on. Epic appears very sensitive to the voltage level.

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Using Epic now and have not experienced any such problems.

 

A warning to anyone using Epics from Otto Nemenz; they have adapted their cameras to include dual HDSDI outputs and multiple 3pin fisher 24v and 12v outputs via a permanently mounted distro block on the side of the camera that has the same large lemo power connector as the RED one camera (and F 35). Trouble for us is you must input both 12v and 24v to the camera via this Lemo connector as you would from a block battery, from the rig otherwise without the 24v input you will get no picture out of the HDSDI connector to the rig monitor. This necessitates flying an AB battery plate (not a bad thing in itself for extra mass purposes) with a built in voltage 24v up-converter. Strange thing was I had to ask for this to be put together at prep with plates and brackets so I could attach it to the camera, as though I was the first Steadi op to have asked for this.

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maybe it does like a higher amperage draw...

 

I had an incident with my first Epic experience a while back where the camera would shut down after a bit of use from some third party batts (can't remember which brand.)

 

So as the Voltage drops, the Amperage increases, right? Me thinks the Epic can control or speak to its own kind, but doesn't want to play nicely with those non-red batt... just a thought

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The Anton Bauer hat swap plate has thermal fuses. I opened mine and bypassed the fuses. That solved the shutdown problem. I used the hot swap bracket with the Red One. With the 10 sec startup on the Epic there is no need for a hot swap plate.

I never had any issues with the Epic and enjoy the light weight.

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The Anton Bauer hat swap plate has thermal fuses. I opened mine and bypassed the fuses. That solved the shutdown problem. I used the hot swap bracket with the Red One. With the 10 sec startup on the Epic there is no need for a hot swap plate.

I never had any issues with the Epic and enjoy the light weight.

 

it was just the body, a ridiculously wide lens, and two preston motors -- so I was trying to add a little heft to it without getting silly and using dead weight like we did in the 80's. With such a low amp draw, and this plate working on every other camera I have ever put it on I was shocked. It was a 14 lb piece of poop.

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Hey Ron,

 

Not sure about over in america, but over here, single battery rail mounted plates are pretty easy to get hold of, I know that Panavision put their Epics out with a similar AB hotswap plate, however Brownian Motion and a few other people often just put them about with a single battery plate (no hot swap).

 

If you are having reliability issues it is also worth checking that you have the latest firmware update on the camera, used and worked with the Epic a few times and never had any major issues with it.

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