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Josiah Sjostrom

GH2 Monitoring on Steadicam Pilot

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Finally received my new Monster SuperThin HDMI cable and just finished installing it. It works a treat! Very little to no resistance when collapsing or extending the center post. Huge improvement over the standard size HMDI I first used.

 

There is another cable out there that is supposed to be even thinner than the Monster SuperThin, and that would probably be even more of an improvement. However, the two lengths it comes in are either too short or excessively long for this application - so I stuck with Monster.

 

Here are the final results:

 

7167440033_f761f543c5_b.jpg

 

This next picture shows the HDMI cable coming through that same port. I simply removed the metal spacer/retainer and it fit's through without resistance.

 

7352651066_819d65eb2f_b.jpg

 

Plugged into the monitor.

 

7167439847_c880a5879d_b.jpg

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Hmm, apparently I'm only allowed three images per post. Continued...

 

This is how it fits under the stage now. Same port as the composite cable

 

7352650950_20c8d4fb88_b.jpg

 

And I didn't' have to grind away the top plate, yay!

 

7167439739_1eaac69a5d_b.jpg

 

For those interested in the process. After removing the bottom crossbar (self explanatory) I also removed the power plug via unscrewing the nut. Made ample space to pass the mini HDMI end up the shaft.

 

7167439685_92bc778f1d_b.jpg

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And the most complicated part. Aside from the four screws you see on that top plate, the side to side adjustment bolt also holds this plate in place. To remove this bolt you need to wind it all the way to this side as shown, remove the two screws at the end of the bar that you see loose, and the two screws from the disconnected sides of the silver guide rails. Why these particular two opposing screws? Well, it just seems to be the way it's built. The other ends you see that are still attached seem to be fastened in a different manner and I was unable to separate them. Once the four addition screws I mentioned are removed, the side to side adjustment bolt will unscrew completely.

 

7352650736_6def61fece_b.jpg

 

Let me know if anyone has questions. It wasn't too bad once I figured out the stage disassembly.

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A nice drive nonetheless...much better than running the gauntlet in Chicago.

 

I grew up in Beaver Dam, just northeast of Madison. In the 1980's I worked at a rock radio station in Rockford. Some great memories...and a lot of memories I've forgotten!

 

Your mod looks good, the thin cable definitely is an improvement for HDMI. That cable looks far superior to the usual stuff, even for an outside-the-post application.

 

 

Didn't there used to be a rental house in Madison?

 

Yeah, I think you're right - although I've never been there. Still over an hour's drive from my place

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A nice drive nonetheless...much better than running the gauntlet in Chicago.

 

I grew up in Beaver Dam, just northeast of Madison. In the 1980's I worked at a rock radio station in Rockford. Some great memories...and a lot of memories I've forgotten!

 

Your mod looks good, the thin cable definitely is an improvement for HDMI. That cable looks far superior to the usual stuff, even for an outside-the-post application.

 

 

Didn't there used to be a rental house in Madison?

 

Yeah, I think you're right - although I've never been there. Still over an hour's drive from my place

 

Ah yes, I think I've been through Beaver Dam once before. Nice to know someone else is familiar with the area. Lived in northern IL most my life. And yes, I prefer the drive to Madison over Chicago.

 

Overseas for about a month, so I haven't really been able to use it much since I finished the mod. But I'm quite happy with it, and am excited to get back to it in a couple weeks.

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For those interested in the process. After removing the bottom crossbar (self explanatory) I also removed the power plug via unscrewing the nut. Made ample space to pass the mini HDMI end up the shaft.

 

7167439685_92bc778f1d_b.jpg

 

Thanks for the great info. Did you have this metal plate where the RCA and power come out?

I can't take out the composite cables to make space for the HDMI cable.

 

IMG_20120707_075740.jpg

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For those interested in the process. After removing the bottom crossbar (self explanatory) I also removed the power plug via unscrewing the nut. Made ample space to pass the mini HDMI end up the shaft.

 

7167439685_92bc778f1d_b.jpg

 

Thanks for the great info. Did you have this metal plate where the RCA and power come out?

I can't take out the composite cables to make space for the HDMI cable.

 

IMG_20120707_075740.jpg

 

Sorry for taking so long to reply, I guess I missed the email somehow. Yes it did have that metal plate in there. I was able to pull it out with a pair of pliers. From the picture you posted, it looks as though you may have tried already? I do remember it taking a bit of force, but it pulled straight up and out (up being toward the top of the photo you posted).

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And the most complicated part. Aside from the four screws you see on that top plate, the side to side adjustment bolt also holds this plate in place. To remove this bolt you need to wind it all the way to this side as shown, remove the two screws at the end of the bar that you see loose, and the two screws from the disconnected sides of the silver guide rails. Why these particular two opposing screws? Well, it just seems to be the way it's built. The other ends you see that are still attached seem to be fastened in a different manner and I was unable to separate them. Once the four addition screws I mentioned are removed, the side to side adjustment bolt will unscrew completely.

 

7352650736_6def61fece_b.jpg

 

Let me know if anyone has questions. It wasn't too bad once I figured out the stage disassembly.

 

 

Hello Josiah

I wanted to ask you if you had any luck disassembling the stage to its bare parts...

I'm thinking of a modification but I'm unable to seperate the 2 micro adjustment knob assemblies from the stage and therefore I can't seperate the aft metal plate as I wanted. In you picture, is the one on top, where the Video RCA socket resides.

Any suggestions?

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And the most complicated part. Aside from the four screws you see on that top plate, the side to side adjustment bolt also holds this plate in place. To remove this bolt you need to wind it all the way to this side as shown, remove the two screws at the end of the bar that you see loose, and the two screws from the disconnected sides of the silver guide rails. Why these particular two opposing screws? Well, it just seems to be the way it's built. The other ends you see that are still attached seem to be fastened in a different manner and I was unable to separate them. Once the four addition screws I mentioned are removed, the side to side adjustment bolt will unscrew completely.

 

7352650736_6def61fece_b.jpg

 

Let me know if anyone has questions. It wasn't too bad once I figured out the stage disassembly.

 

 

Hello Josiah

I wanted to ask you if you had any luck disassembling the stage to its bare parts...

I'm thinking of a modification but I'm unable to seperate the 2 micro adjustment knob assemblies from the stage and therefore I can't seperate the aft metal plate as I wanted. In you picture, is the one on top, where the Video RCA socket resides.

Any suggestions?

 

Sorry again for taking so long to reply. I think I'm having trouble with my email notifications.

 

Yes, the RCA is at the top in this picture, and the power at the bottom. You only need to separate bar on the left of that picture. Don't worry about removing the forward/back micro adjustment knob, just the side-to-side. The front and rear plate do not need to come off either. Just the bar on the left.

 

Please let me know if you have any other questions, and hopefully I get the email notification of your response ;-)

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I'm happy to report that a year later my modded Steadicam is still going strong. I use it quite frequently, and haven't had any issues with it yet. Mainly, I just try to be gentle when extending and retracting the center-post. I now use it with a GH3 and it continues to perform well. I've also added an RC4 quick-release system to the cheese plate, and if you usually use a similar configuration, that has helped me with setup time - the bubble level is also handy.

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Thanks for the step-by-step photos. I just finished adding in HDMI cable + 7" LCD and also fished in a battery cable the same way to power my GH2 externally.

+1 with the RC4 QR system. The only thing I don't like about it is how annoying the lever is to release the camera.

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Josiah Sjostrom, thank you for the informative and clear guide. I began to take my Pilot apart today and got almost as far as you did, but was unsure when winding out the side-to-side adjustment screw fully (didn't want to strip any threads). Needless to say in the end it all came apart exactly as you described.

 

Just for anyone else looking to do the same, the bottom metal plate where the video/power leads exit the centre post, with the rubber grommet, I tried to use pliers to pull it out but found that pulling firmly on the grommet was enough for the plate to slide out.

 

Also I found the screws on the side of the sled (that hold the cross bars in place) to be an odd size, 7/64" Imperial hex key.

 

Thanks again,

 

Shahid

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