Omega from MK-V

[flemming laybourn]

Like benjamin mention, the final omega while have everything build in at the top, however a few things to consider

- if you have/want the motorized monitor mount you still need a rig that will be able to send a signal back through the post from the top.

- you need a rigid post, dont know the xcs post, but Im guessing that benjamin wouldnt use it if it wasnt good..;-)

Personally I feel that you need the MK-V gimbal with the long handle to get the best use of the AR, this is basically due to the mass of

the rings when in low mode ( it gets quite close to your hips ). i also have the ( fantastic ) XCS gimbal, but only use this for "normal" stadicam work..

 

all the best

 

flemming laybourn

 

omega owner/operator

[Thomas English]

So the PRO Gimble is not loaded whilst the MK-V and XCS Gimbles are PreLoaded. This does mean that there is a clunk when you turn the PRO gimble upside sown.

 

The question is.. will it matter. So I am going to try it out. For now though its safe to assume that the best sled to use the AR on is the MK-V one especially with its custom made long gimble handle.

 

Incidently I don't know if the BaerBell, Betzor Satchler gimbles are preloaded.

 

I tested an old 3a style gimble from MK-V and I remember that being preloaded. So you might just be able to swap your gimbles out. Again though. Them gimble handles where quite short. I guess MK-V can make 1.5in Gimbles with long handles for PRO users in the future.

[Benjamin Treplin]

The XCS gimbal is not preloaded, it just has a very tiny play. Never felt a clunk rotating it. AFAIN the Baer-Bel, Betz and Sachtler aren't either.

With the new electronics I don't think it will matter, but I'm very curious what your findings will be Thomas.

I never found that the slightly shorter gimbal handle of the XCS is an issue. Most of the time I use an L-bracket with the AR anyway. Gives enough room for the cage to rotate around the arm (don't know if that makes sense).

 

I'd like to add two notes to what Flemming brought up:

- The motorized monitor arm is essential. I have no idea how one could precisely frame a shot while the gravity driven monitor arm is going wild, but that's maybe just me.

- Power supply: The AR motors are 24V! One reason I believe the XCS U1 is a very good platform for the AR.

[Michael Hauer]

So in the final design of the cage where the electronics are on the top how is the motorized monitor arm connected to the brain so that it knows where to go?

 

Been curious about the Omegas compatibility with my sled for some time (I have a pro2 with xcs post and gimbal). It seems that the battery hanger would need extra mass in the front even with the electronics gone to compensate for the smaller monitor being thrown around in all directions. Looks like a pro battery hanger wont cut it. Maybe a steadirig? Are there some other solutions for adapting the bottom initertia necessities to a pro system rig? Has anyone tried one?

Edited January 6, 2014 by Michael Hauer

[Benjamin Treplin]

You need two unused wires down the post carrying the data.

[Sandro Galv]

Howard? Can you help us?

[Tony Deemer]

How well do you think this will do on a Steadicam Archer. It has all stock setup except the sleds base is modified to the AT-AT conversion.

 

http://www.hofmann.se/produkter/steadicam/upgrade/archer/index.htm

[flemming laybourn]

The Omega is heavy, and puts a lot of strain on your rig, Image how you feel everytime you put your "nomal" rig in horizontal mode to check your droptime, ect... I for one always worried a little if something might break, twist or fall of... ;-)

 

the whole Idea of the Omega is that a lot of the time you will have your rig in odd angles, and put a lot of strain on your post, gimbal and all attachments..

Further more, you will often have you post extended in both ends, in order to use the Omega to its full extend, putting even more strain on your system.

Im not saying that you must use the MK-V 2" 4 tube post, but you need something very rigid, that will manage the strain.

 

:-)

 

flemming laybourn

[Thomas English]

You need two unused wires down the post carrying the data.

 

Interesting that you say the XCS isn't pre-loaded but just has a tiny clip and really is fine. I think with the weight on that movement won't happen in a "bad" way.

 

With the Omega in its final form those two wires will be only to drive the motorized monitor. Incidently I have done a lot of shots with a cable running the outside of my rig on the AR. Video cable.

[RonBaldwin]

To answer an earlier question about gimbals...this week during a moment of extreme lunacy at work I twirled, flipped and flopped my rig fast and slow and felt no clunk in the pro gimbal. I am not saying the pro rig is ok with the omega (keep that thing the hell away from me!) but there was no issue like I expected to feel. However, the twirling had an affect on several pedestrians and crew in the vicinity -- now they think I am cool.

[GregBubb]

XCS preloaded bearings. When I hear “preloaded bearings” I typically would think of an additional part used to preload bearings. Typically wave washers or springs, they make them for inner and outer bearing races and inch or foot pounds of preload, this would be a common preload in some applications.

 

 

There is none of this in and XCS gimbal. I do preload my gimbals the hard way. Extremely close tolerance bearings, machining and grinding on the gimbal parts. It is the most expensive way, and trouble free for the end user. This is for radial bearing designed for thrust loads, not thrust bearings or deep V grove bearings which have very little radial play but are what commonly called “very stiff” when used in gimbals and make the gimbal typically 3-5 time thicker in the bearing cup area. Completely different design and feel altogether.

 

Ron I can’t speak for your specific gimbal, but I use to own and fly Pro systems and certainly understand gimbal and bearing designs. Back in my pro ownership days they recommended to me “you change out the bearings every number of years” 3 or 4 but I would check it was long ago.

 

 

In reality you should never have to change out a bearing for wear issues if its a proper bearing design for the application. After 17 years I have never changed out a single bearing in an XCS gimbal due to failure (wear) but a time will come I am sure. I have change out two for not letting the Loc-tite dry a full 24-36 hours and putting it on an a airplane. It dried alright, some where between here and France. That was a costly error not to be made again. And a few in the gimbal handle when the retaining cap turned in on the bearings.

 

Ron check the main bearing retaining ring, located under the top gimbal cap. Give it a good wrap on the end of the gimbal wrench with the plastic end on a screwdriver, in this case it can’t hurt it. Do the same to the outer top cap, this may be the issue or not.

 

 

Greg B.

[Michael Sanchez]

Nice to see the Omega finally, was excited when they first had announcements of a new design coming out - can't wait to see this in person and try it out sometime soon hopefully.

[Guest Howard J Smith (Temp)]

Hi Guys

The New Ωmega revolution is serveral pounds lighter and only 14mm taller than the original AR and it will work on Any system (head) or sled that has both 12v & 24v.

At Cinegear 2013 I used it on a lightweight MK-V Alpha seld (1.5" 2 stage) and could still get from the floor to over someones head (Video on MK-V's facebook page)

The Monitor arm also works on any sled or system. I ran the whole package with transvideo monitor, RED Epic and zoom and focus system on 2 black canisters of the PRO atlas arm. = Therefore totally all up weight of everything inc batteries etc was less than 34lbs.

If anyone has any questions please email me at hjsmkv@mac.com

Thank you

Howard

MK-V

[Guest Howard J Smith (Temp)]

Regarding Sleds and Gimbals - some work great some not so good.

If you get a 'clunk' you will see it in the shot. Post length I have been playing with and this is not as important as the gimbal.

What is important is to have your sled balanced front to back - for example a battery in front of the post (about 10") this helps a lot in mid mode.

You balance the system horizontal and flat - with the camera and monitor in their correct possitions. Then you go to high mode and set your side to side.

Fore and aft is done in Mid mode.

Hope this helps?

Cheers

H

Edited March 7, 2014 by Howard J Smith MK-V

[Joe Papa]

Hey guys. I'd think twice about the Omega or any of its iterations. While it may look cool, the reality is that it's an outdated Alexmos based single axis gimbal. I have first hand knowledge of the products design, electronics and setup and it's far from refined. The Alexmos board used is the Tiny Pro, a board intended for go pro size cameras. Since only one axis is needed, the other two are simply disabled. Using one IMU and a $2 encoder with a magnet glued to the back of the motor, you're paying $5000 for a $79 dollar controller, an undersize motor meant for DSLR and a few cnc parts that are all very simple. They are being shipped with a very basic configuration and the IMU isn't even being calibrated for the temperature variables. No additional functions available on the alexmos board are even enabled.

 

It's a DIY one axis gimbal. It will suffer from all the alexmos issues we are all aware of especially when temperatures change. Just off the shelf electronics meant for the DIY being packaged for big profit. I encourage you all to look into the customer service issues associated with Howard Smith as well. Not making any of this up. All factual info from hands on experience. Overall, a cool idea but the cheap electronics and lack of refinement in code are a huge deal breaker you should all be aware of. The stabilization is FAR from what a movi or DJI Ronin can provide. Don't get burned.