Pilot+Paralinx

[Ross Zuchowski]

I fly mostly DSLRs and am looking at a wireless video setup, the Paralinx Arrow seems like a good fit. The issue is running the video signal from camera to the Arrow and to my Pilot sled which is SD. I have been looking at several down/cross converters. I've been looking at ways to utilize the Decimator 2 as it seems like a good fit - but it doesn't have an HDMI passthrough for the Arrow. The next product the MD-CROSS seems like a good fit as it would provide the HDMI for the Arrow as well as additional outputs for monitoring on the Pilot. I was wondering though I know that the MD-CROSS doesn't provide a composite out like the decimator 2 - does the Pilot only accept a composite signal? Just trying to troubleshoot what the best setup would be and also be mindful of how I'm going to power all the additional accessories.

 

Does anyone have a setup they like to utilize?

 

-Ross

Edited June 26, 2013 by Ross Zuchowski

[Victor Lazaro]

You could also look for a HDSDI monitor and make your sled hd along with the cross.

[Ross Zuchowski]

That may be the better option at this point - I'm looking at the SmallHD HB monitor but we'll see what happens when people start getting them and giving feedback. Then I just need to redo the wiring through the post for the HD signal.

[Mark Schlicher]

Lets uncomplicate things a bit...

 

Adding a bunch of converters to the Pilot is possible but why add a tangle of wires & connectors & powering hassles? You have at least two options that are reasonably uncomplicated and inexpensive.

 

1. Most DSLR's offer simultaneous HDMI and SD composite output. Plug the SD signal into the Pilot monitor, and use HDMI output for the Paralinx.

 

2. Buy an HDMI sled monitor (such as a Marshall or Small HD) with loop through. Stretch an HDMI cable externally (down the front of the camera stage, to the back of the monitor). Secure it tautly with zip-ties or something similar to keep it neat. Either attach the Paralinx to the loop-out connector on the monitor and rig it to the lower sled spar or....to keep the transmitter up high on the camera stage, run a second HDMI cable side by side with the first.

 

Hope that helps.

[Ross Zuchowski]

Thanks for the input Mark - I'm probably just over complicating things adding all the converters, etc. The monitor with loop through makes a lot of sense.

[Victor Lazaro]

I'm on my phone and couldn't read much but this seems like a possible solution. http://www.vc1series.com/home-2/vc-1-sc/ just got a creative cow email with this on it... That's all I know about it.

[Mark Schlicher]

Victor, thanks for the link. Looks like a promising converter option.

 

Ross, you're welcome.

 

And to make sure I'm being clear, you'll want to stretch this (these) cables from the front center of your camera topstage, down to the top center of your monitor. Secure the cable at both attachement points (probably with zip-ties) so that it is taut and doesn't flop around. Obviously make sure that you have strain relief on both ends and that you coil up and secure any excess cable. This technique keeps the cables out of the way for operating.

[Ross Zuchowski]

Thanks guys -

 

Victor, that converter looks like it has a ton of options.

 

Mark, I appreciate the attention to detail.

 

Once I get my new monitor in I'll let you guys know how it worked out.

[Josh Pickering]

This might not be the solution you're looking for, but I have used this. http://www.amazon.com/Nyrius-Wireless-Transmitter-Receiver-NPCS550/dp/B0092T3E3A/ref=pd_sim_e_3

as an alternative to the Paralinx. It gives you 160ft of signal at 1080P and is pretty inexpensive.

[Ian Collishaw]

I bought the Nyrius unit and wouldn't recommend it in the slightest. There's no way you could power the transmitter and receiver without an extended setup, which is beyond the weight capacity of the Pilot.

 

I can barely get it to work on a Scout, have to buy some v-lock batteries and a rail system to hold it.. It's awful. I would have rather just gone with the Paralinx for wireless, it's a lot easier in the long run.

[Victor Lazaro]

The Paralinx arrow works with any 5v (YSB) power source. They provide a P-tap to USB cable (you can buy it separately for anything else as well. Great for your phone) the other option is a phone battery pack with 5v USB plugs (look for one that is iPad certified as it is a stronger 5v 2amp power)

[Tom Wills]

I bought the Nyrius unit and wouldn't recommend it in the slightest. There's no way you could power the transmitter and receiver without an extended setup, which is beyond the weight capacity of the Pilot.

 

I can barely get it to work on a Scout, have to buy some v-lock batteries and a rail system to hold it.. It's awful. I would have rather just gone with the Paralinx for wireless, it's a lot easier in the long run.

... Uh, what? The Nyrius uses the exact same power supplies as the Paralinx does. In fact, I know several people who bought Nyrius rigs and Paralinx P Tap to USB converters to power them. I built my own P Tap to USB regulator, but with it my Nyrius has been fine on set for months, without anything beyond what you'd have to use for a Paralinx product. Sure, it doesn't all come in one box like the Paralinx does, but if you're willing to deal with the compromises in design (slightly shorter range, no frequency hopping), it does the job for a price that I can afford to just keep in the kit to prevent hardwiring.

[Alan Rencher]

I guess everything in life can come down to how many compromises you're willing to make.

[Tom Wills]

Well Alan, there's a hell of a lot of places I'd rather be spending $700 (and on things that will actually make me rental income, which an HDMI transmitter won't in my market), so I'm more than happy with the unit I chose. To each their own, however.

 

Just curious, Alan, do you work for Paralinx? You are an administrator on their forum.

[Frederic Sturm]

Regardless of Paralinx or Nyrius, power is the same, or any other USB powered accessory,

I can recommend another D-Tap USB cable, like the Paralinx one, but maybe easier to get

for people in Europe as its from uk, (and quite a bit cheaper):

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/D-Tap-to-mini-usb-Tascam-DR-60d-Zoom-H6-/171099288706?

 

I bought 3 of this, they work great, and that guy ships pretty fast.