Vintage Garrett Brown

[Justin Hazell]

Hi there,

 

New to the forum, just trying to get an idea or worth for a vintage Garrett brown 3 in good working order (UK)

 

Many thanks in advance

[chris fawcett]

There's only one Garrett Brown. Do you mean a Steadicam Model III?

[Justin Hazell]

yes, its partly original partly modified with an original arm, sled & gimble.

 

Any info is appreciated

[chris fawcett]

It doesn't have much antiquity value—some are still in use, though modified, as is yours.

 

Search the Forum Marketplace to see if any have been sold recently.

 

All the best,

 

Chris

[chris fawcett]

http://bit.ly/1iLKzoA

 

;)

[Eric Fletcher S.O.C.]

http://bit.ly/1iLKzoA

;)

Well that was a bit cockish Chris

[chris fawcett]

Fair comment, Eric.

:)

[Sam Morgan Moore]

actually the protocol for searching a specific site was useful :)

 

Indeed there is only on GB!

[Brant S. Fagan SOC]

Eric-- Why do you bother responding to anything listed as under 'Steadi-Newbies?'

[Eric Fletcher S.O.C.]

Brant,

 

My response to Chris was the day after he said he was going to call out cocking posts.

[chris fawcett]

Guilty as charged. Begging your honour's pardon.

[Peter Abraham]

Quit the hijacking. This fellow had real questions.

 

Justin, welcome to the Forum and to a great supportive worldwide community. There are some real positives to finding a Universal Model III system. There are also some somewhat costly issues to consider. In no particular order:

 

* A comfortable vest.

* If the IIIA Arm is in great shape, they are respected and strong arms.

* If the Gimbal spins flat and the bearings are in good shape, you're in luck. Any well-used gimbal that old may have some issues- or may be splendid. Must have it flown to find out. The heart of a system is the gimbal and arm.

* Regard the entire sled from top to bottom as a Project. The X/Y stage is fine. The J Box will be tossed out, since you will want to have all wiring and electronics removed. What you would be left with is a nice solid vibration-free sled shell. Replace the plastic doors with flat plastic or aluminum panels- it makes your sled narrower by about 1". ( Priceless)

* Into that bottom sled area can go many very key items. Recorders, transmitters, horizon sensors and so on. Get the best monitor you can afford, one that services your needs outside in the sunlight. Have the whole thing wired with at LEAST 4 HDSDI wires, and plenty of power cables of good gauge. Mount 3-4 battery mounts on the bottom.

 

You'd have a solid rig with tons of power and flexibility. Not everyone can claim a rig that can balance a very light DSLR with light cage, and also balance a large behemoth.

 

Good luck ! Let us know if you get ahold of it and what you do with it.

Best to all,

 

Peter Abraham, S.O.C.

[Janice Arthur]

Justin;

 

I partly agree with Peter.

 

Arm good,

Vest good, or fixable enough to use.

Sled, get it cheap enough like $800. with a working monitor (existing green screen) and recell a couple of batteries enough to make the monitor work.

Here are the finer points of both agreement and disagreement;

1) Don't do anything else to the rig.

Why, because you'll outgrow it before you use up the money/time you invest in "fixing" it.

2) You will get about 12-18 months of use out of it and some practice time and some clients with it in that time.

3) When you go to sell it after that you'll still get $300-500 for it or put it up over your mantel as a good display piece.

4) You will be able to hold a range of cameras that Peter said and that's good but most cameras today have their own batteries onboard so why spend money rewiring or buying batteries on a system that's older than you are.

5) If the monitor works use it, it will give you an image, though small but viewable and its basically free.

6) buy yourself a cheap downconverter and send an image into it. Done; also very cheap

7) If you put in 2-5k in the rig when you go to sell it you won't get it back from whomever buys it from you.

8) I personally know a whole group of guys who are using a stock 3A and are happy as can be with it, so its fine.

9) Remember, as Peter said, what you're buying is a top stage and a post and a gimbal. The rest, if you change one thing is a) a lot of work b) not worth it (in my opinion).

 

10) transmitters, and follow focuses and misc other stuff either have their own batteries or can run off the sled for the cost of a cable. Heck you may not even encounter them for quite a while so why stress about them now.

 

Good luck

 

Janice