Premium Members Peter Abraham Posted January 8, 2015 Premium Members Report Share Posted January 8, 2015 This latest bit I've started using myself and selling to others has proved to be quite useful. It is not meant ONLY for the Alexa- it is used with every camera body and configuration out there. Howeer, the most recent iteration of Longplate build involves an Arri Alexa. Here's The Facebook Page detailing the Longplate. Here's the video that Chris Fawcett did last year Not only can you grab the bottom of the body at two points, but the Longplate allows you to also mount Transmitters or other accessories behind the body and/or follow focus rods and brackets up beneath the lens, or a ringlight. Many options, limited only by the Operator's imagination. The Longplate fits the following stages: Steadicam, GPI/PRO, XCS, Sachtler and Betz. Contact me by email with any questions not addressed on the Facebook page. The production run was of 60, 12 are already sold and in use. The Longplate is $ 300.00 and comes with custom cut washers to allow the use of 1/4-20 machine screws as well as 3/8-16 machine screws. Best to all, Peter Abraham, S.O.C. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Members Mark Schlicher Posted January 9, 2015 Premium Members Report Share Posted January 9, 2015 Ever consider a narrow version for Archer & Zephyr owners? especially useful for a rig without a nosebox like Zephyr. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Members Peter Abraham Posted January 9, 2015 Author Premium Members Report Share Posted January 9, 2015 Mark- Of course ! I'm nothing if not obsessive about my inventions. I considered the Medium Tiffen stage when designing the Longplate. I thought the Facebook page makes it clear that it can be used with Zephyr/ Archer stages. There are two threaded 1/4-20 holes in the Longplate. If a customer ( such as your fine self ) specifies that they have one of the Medium Tiffen stages, they will get a set of 4 black Delrin spacers. These are used between your plate and the Longplate, and are compressed into place when the two plates are mated. Screwing the two plates directly against each other prevents the Zephyr/ Archer plate from locking into the stage. The accessory kit would include: º 5 Custom cut washers to allow use of 1/4-20 screws º 4 Delrin spacers º 1 3/8-16 set screw. This is used to hold one of the spacers into place. Wanna try one, lemme know. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Members Peter Abraham Posted January 9, 2015 Author Premium Members Report Share Posted January 9, 2015 The core issues I wished to address when I went to work were eliminating vibration and lowering c.g. effect by accessories by lowering mount points. Regard this photo below from a shoot I did this week. I used my Longplate just because it would allow me to mount my Ikegami plate using the holes on the underside that are at the far ends. It also allowed me to have the plate 100% supported by the Longplate. Both in the service of reducing/ eliminating potential vibration. As is the case with every new bit that emerges, Operators who are using the Longplate are bringing ideas and companion bits to the picture. This is just what I had hoped for !Here's a great example. Kat Kallergis uses a lot of these small clamps and brackets. I obtained a selection of these "SmallClamp" brackets. One or two are just perfect for use with the Longplate. Here's the page for all of the 15mm Rod clamps and brackets. Cool Rig Clamps Page. The single most useful bits involve being able to bolt a clamp to the Longplate with a 1/4-20 and then have a 15mm rod hole available for use. In this manner, I mounted a spare V Mount Battery plate quickly and with zero vibration behind a camera. Here's that one part. 15mm 90º Two Holes Clamp. When you sit with the Longplate and look at the build on set or on a prep day in a rental house, you realize you've got more room. In front and behind the camera body. If the plate itself covers ff rods that are native to your stage, you can easily mount rods onto the plate itself. Things can be moved from arms, brackets and bits that mount TO the camera body. They can live behind the camera, lowering the c.g. of the camera mass as a unit, and eliminating vibration potentials. If I encounter the need for a solid HD video D/A, I'd take one of these Wooden Camera C-Box Mounts and mount it to a V Mount on an angled mount plate. This would let me use the features of the C-Box, while hard-mounting the battery and plates to the Longplate, many inches lower than the camera body. Just one example of what one can do to lower c.g. and keep elements attached with vibration-free bolt-to-plate or bolt-to-clamp assembly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Members Geoff Owen Posted January 13, 2015 Premium Members Report Share Posted January 13, 2015 Hi Peter, Nice work, what are you methods of payment? Regarding the set-up in the picture above with the Ikegami plate. I'm not too familiar with this camera or mounting plate, I presume that it is different to the "sony" style plate or you would have attached the camera to your long DT plate in the same way that you would with a Sony or Alexa. Or am I mistaken? With a Sony or Alexa, can you mount the camera at any position along the plate? (sorry for my lack of technical terms here) If I dont have the Sony style "V" block for the Alexa and only have the standard Arri block, do you have a riser block for the rear "button" ? In this case, to keep the camera parallel to the DT plate, Is the L to R spacing of the slots in your DT plate equal to the off-set that the Arri block creates if I had to mount the camera with the arri block in place? Can I have "no block" at all (Sony "V" or Arri) on the bottom of the camera and use a longer 3/8 tiedown bolt straight into one of the two mounting holes used for the "V" or Arri block attachment? If this is the case will the spacing of the slots line up for the tiedown "button" at the back , depending on which 3/8 hole I engage at the front of the camera? Many thanks Geoff Owen Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Members Peter Abraham Posted January 13, 2015 Author Premium Members Report Share Posted January 13, 2015 Hi Peter, Nice work, what are you methods of payment? Regarding the set-up in the picture above with the Ikegami plate. I'm not too familiar with this camera or mounting plate, I presume that it is different to the "sony" style plate or you would have attached the camera to your long DT plate in the same way that you would with a Sony or Alexa. Or am I mistaken? With a Sony or Alexa, can you mount the camera at any position along the plate? (sorry for my lack of technical terms here) If I dont have the Sony style "V" block for the Alexa and only have the standard Arri block, do you have a riser block for the rear "button" ? In this case, to keep the camera parallel to the DT plate, Is the L to R spacing of the slots in your DT plate equal to the off-set that the Arri block creates if I had to mount the camera with the arri block in place? Can I have "no block" at all (Sony "V" or Arri) on the bottom of the camera and use a longer 3/8 tiedown bolt straight into one of the two mounting holes used for the "V" or Arri block attachment? If this is the case will the spacing of the slots line up for the tiedown "button" at the back , depending on which 3/8 hole I engage at the front of the camera? Many thanks Geoff Owen Hi Geoff, Terrific question, that. To answer it, I'm going to head into Abelcine in NYC this morning after a meeting. Will grab any Sony body and take the machine screws and make it happen. Will shoot photos. Will post here. :) The goal is zero blocks of any brand. Just using the holes in the bottom of the V Foot bolted into the front bottom of the Sony, or Arri, body. And using the threaded washer gag at the back. The goal is lowering the c.g. and reducing weight, and for some of us who don't own their own Sony and Ikegami plates, the goal is also reducing the vibration ( sometimes quite severe ) that comes with using a rental house Sony plate. I take PayPal. Also ca$h, if you happen to be in New York City. More on this later today !! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Members John Stout Posted January 13, 2015 Premium Members Report Share Posted January 13, 2015 Peter, I am interested in this too as it would be great to only have one plate for doing all of the ENG cameras. I look forward to the update! John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Members Geoff Owen Posted January 13, 2015 Premium Members Report Share Posted January 13, 2015 Thanks Peter, will look forward to your next post. Geoff Owen Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Members Peter Abraham Posted January 15, 2015 Author Premium Members Report Share Posted January 15, 2015 Took the Longplate down to Abelcine in NYC. Attached should be photos of it mounted to both the Amira and the bottom of your basic Sony broadcast camera. The footprint is identical, so it was no surprise that it worked. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Members chris fawcett Posted January 15, 2015 Premium Members Report Share Posted January 15, 2015 In that first shot, you look like you're playing the violin, Maestro. Nice work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Members Peter Abraham Posted January 16, 2015 Author Premium Members Report Share Posted January 16, 2015 " Herr Mozart, the human ear can only hear so many notes in one evening" . ~~~ " Amadeus " 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Members chris fawcett Posted January 16, 2015 Premium Members Report Share Posted January 16, 2015 Salierient words. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris McKissick Posted July 14, 2015 Report Share Posted July 14, 2015 Hey there, would you consider the setup with a fully loaded Alexa to be safe for (upside down) low mode? In other words.. Is there any chance of the washer sliding out of the back part even if fully tightened? Thanks! Can't wait for the plate to arrive! ;) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ned McIntosh Posted September 2, 2016 Report Share Posted September 2, 2016 "Salierient"?...why they're positively sadagerous words! Peter, would this be too long for the Pilot HD stage? I have a cage-rig for the GH4 and the rig normally uses the Sony VCT-14U plate, but that adds rather more weight than I'd like, plus there is the issue of developing play in the plate with the cage-rig mounted. One of these would perfectly replace the VCT-14, make finding the CofG easy and allow wider spacing of mounting-screwson the Pilot HD stage, but the length has me a bit concerned. (I'm assuming the long plate weighs less than the VCT-14, but I might well be wrong.) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Members Peter Abraham Posted September 2, 2016 Author Premium Members Report Share Posted September 2, 2016 Hi all, I actually have inserted a note suggesting AGAINST low mode with this kit. Better to be very cautious than woefully sorry. Ned- the Longplate will work with the Pilot plate. You have to screw the two together. Not a problem. The Longplate weighs 20 ounces. PM me to place an order ! Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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