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i have a AB gold mount on a dovetail plate.. i have banana plugs on the ends and i just insert the pins into the two power locations.. i think there is a + and - indication on the sled no? ill have to have a look at the sled tonight but its only two pins....

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i have a AB gold mount on a dovetail plate.. i have banana plugs on the ends and i just insert the pins into the two power locations.. i think there is a + and - indication on the sled no? ill have to have a look at the sled tonight but its only two pins....

 

Marc,

 

That's virtually exactly what I'm doing. I've had a few responses with specific instructions that have been extremely helpful. Out of the four original converter pins, only the top two are necessary for this process. Looking at the sled from the front, the pin on the left is + and the right is -.

 

How is your gold mount attached to your dovetail? Velcro? I was hoping for something a bit more secure, but it'd be difficult to drill through the dovetail since it needs to remain flush on the underside, and it seems to be too thin to countersink. Velcro should work when shooting normally, but if I had to go to low mode I might be concerned it would detach.

 

Best,

Afton

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I don't think Velcro will hold a battery firmly enough and you might introduce vibration down below.

 

You could counter sink some screws but there's enough material on the dovetail to get a firm hold. I used epoxy on mine. Get a decent brand that will work with plastic and metal. Prep the dovetail and the Gold plate and glue them up. I built mine quite awhile ago and it's still rock solid.

 

Make sure you lay out the parts and are happy with their position before you apply the stuff as you only have one shot to get it right without making a huge mess.

 

Keep in mind the dovetail capture screw has to be accessible to get the thing on and off, so don't under estimate the size of your fingers.

 

 

 

 

Paul Magee

Philadelphia, PA

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amgrant,

 

the gold mount is attached to the accessory dovetail plate by screws. its pretty secure. i just slide the plate up the rail and i have a screw that screws down onto the dovetail. i use proformers for that.

 

i can snap a photo and send it to your email if you need to see it.. just let me know...

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Hey Everyone,

 

I just finished what turned out to be a relatively simple 24V upgrade solution for my Master sled. I wanted to switch to something more reliable than the old stock 12/24 converter. Haven't yet tested it in the field, but everything appears to be working just as planned.

 

I put together a walkthrough of the process for anyone interested in doing the same.

 

http://www.aftongrant.com/steadicam/Master...sion/index.html

 

I hope this can be of help to someone. Feel free to get in touch with any questions. Thanks very much to everyone that lent some advice and helped me through the process. Much appreciated.

 

Best,

Afton Grant

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Hey Everyone,

 

I just finished what turned out to be a relatively simple 24V upgrade solution for my Master sled. I wanted to switch to something more reliable than the old stock 12/24 converter. Haven't yet tested it in the field, but everything appears to be working just as planned.

 

I put together a walkthrough of the process for anyone interested in doing the same.

 

http://www.aftongrant.com/steadicam/Master...sion/index.html

 

I hope this can be of help to someone. Feel free to get in touch with any questions. Thanks very much to everyone that lent some advice and helped me through the process. Much appreciated.

 

Best,

Afton Grant

 

Bravo! Nicely done!

 

A few suggestions:

 

1 You might want to cover those exposed banana/ring terminal connections. I like using the PLASTI DIP stuff that is meant to coat tool handles for this. It comes in spray or brush/pour on versions, is tough and insulating, and can be cut off easily with an exacto if you need to remove it. Exposed terminals with voltage on them give me the willies.

 

2. This will also work with an NP-1 holder and NP-1 batteries instead of the A/B Gold mount. The IDX NH-100 holder is only $55.00 and NiCad NP-1's are less than $100 each. Just a thought.

 

It gets the BarTech "DIY and quit bothering me" seal of approval.

 

Jim "too big for his britches" Bartell

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Nice work Afton. I'm curious how this has affected your dynamic balance. Do you end up having to pull the original battery a lot farther from the sled than you did before?

 

Hey Brad,

 

Yes, the primary battery has to come out about 3/4". I'll tweak the top stage back just a tad as well. One good thing is that I can bring the lower post in a lot more, making the rig much more compact.

 

Here's a picture of the rig in dynamic balance. The cage and DVX weigh about 30lbs.

 

post-1274-1141095294_thumb.jpg

 

Jim,

 

I'm proud of myself for earning such a prestigious seal! Much gratis. I've been trying to think of something to cover the exposed connections. I considered certain types of caulk, but I never thought of the Plasti Dip. That should be perfect. Thanks again!

 

Best to all,

Afton

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Afton

 

I have had that exact setup for 5 years now I believe. When the 435 became an issue. The suggestions were good on the wires. I have no problems with any camera I come in contact with. My problem is my proformers are about cashed and as you know there not available anymore. I'm looking into other options. If you know where I can get my hands on proformers that would be great. I guess I could always recell them.

One option is the hytron 50's although I hear they have issues with heavy power draw such as the 435.

Any thoughts would be great!!

 

All in all it works great.

 

Greg Code

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