Mike Mohun Posted June 5, 2015 Report Share Posted June 5, 2015 I have a new Steadicam Scout with an HD monitor to run with my Blackmagic cinema camera. I was trying to figure out how to power my camera with the steadicam battery. I could power the steadicam monitor with the battery on the steadicam by using the included cords. But there was no cord in my package that gave me the ability to power my camera with the battery below. I first settled with a battery mounted to the camera but this added unnecessary weight. So I purchased a 3pin lemo to dc cord and attached the camera to the steadicam base plate hoping that this would power my camera. What happened next is tragic. The monitor started smoking and then was no longer functional. Somehow, the cord that went from the camera to the steadycam, I presume then internally down through the steadicam to the monitor, fried the monitor! How is this possible? I now need either to replace the monitor, or repair it, but this does not give me comfort because I still do not know how to power the camera with the steadycam, what power cord to purchase, and how to configure the apparatus. I want only to run with a steadicam. I am not an electrician, nor should this have to be so complicated. Please advise. Respectfully, Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators Janice Arthur Posted June 5, 2015 Moderators Report Share Posted June 5, 2015 Mike Sorry to hear that's bad. 1) who made the power cable for camera? 2) did u ask Tiffen any questions about the issue? 3) this should be simple, as u said, not sure why it's so bad Let us know Janice Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Members Victor Lazaro Posted June 5, 2015 Premium Members Report Share Posted June 5, 2015 Is it the Marshall (Rebranded Steadicam) monitor? They tend to be very sensitive to polarity. It sounds that the cable you got was no made for the BMCC. if it is a Marshall monitor, I would recommend to call them too (along with Tiffen) Tiffen simply sends their monitor to Marshall for maintenance so why not skip a step (that's what I did and they replaced it for free) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Members Alan Rencher Posted June 6, 2015 Premium Members Report Share Posted June 6, 2015 You probably used a cable that wasn't wired for your Scout. Your monitor fried because you created a short when you plugged in the cable; basically the cable shorted the positive line to ground, and the Marshall monitor doesn't have short circuit protection. You'll have to get your Marshall main board replaced. Anton/Bauer Dionic batteries (and newer) have built-in breakers to prevent damage in the event of a short, so I'm guessing maybe you were using batteries that don't have that protection. Always test cables before you plug them in, even when buying from the manufacturer, and never guess when buying a cable. Only buy cables that are propose built for your devices. In this industry, you rarely find something that is truly "plug and play." Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Members GregBubb Posted June 8, 2015 Premium Members Report Share Posted June 8, 2015 This is all too common of an issue. A minor failure shutting down another connected item. Batteries do have thermal fuses but sadly by that time they have opened it is far too late for most components plug into your sled. Battery fuses are not designed to circuit protect your sled, rather the battery pack. Two very different things. Typical battery pack thermal fuse we see today will open between 10.25- 14. amps of a dead short which can take 2-20 seconds for the temperature to rise enough which is be dependent on type of failure and manufactures circuit protection. This issue is the sled manufacturing companies issue to me and they could have done a proper job protecting basic common failures. Proper circuit protection/detection should be 2nd or 3rd on anyone’s list of questions when looking to purchase a sled. A sad lesson has learned, but you are not alone. On this very same note a specific connector type I have had more calls on recently have been P-Tap connectors. Let’s face it, it’s a cheap connector. Move away from them if you can. Pony up the extra dollars for a quality product that will last. Additionally FYI to those who plug P-Taps directly into your batteries. If you’re an operator that does plug directly in a battery and you are running your sled in 24 volt mode. Be sure the battery you plug into is not the second battery in the series if you are seeking 16 Vdc, which now outputs the combined voltage of two batteries, roughly 32 volts. It a quick death and the smell of melting polyethylene in the morning is always "wake up" call. Greg 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Members Victor Lazaro Posted June 9, 2015 Premium Members Report Share Posted June 9, 2015 It is always a pain, but I also think it is the accessory manufacturer's responsability to prevent for Murphy's law situations and protect their gear from reverse polarity at the very least. Looks like those SafeTap are going to help http://mediablackout.net/safetap-now-available/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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