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Tips on Whip Tilts and Whip Tilts with Pans


Kevin Kisling
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A few jobs ago, I was asked to do whip tilts and whip tilts with pans. I hope I explain this clearly enough, think of a person with outstretched arms; CU of hand right hand then tilt/pan to CU of face lock-off then tilt/pan to CU of left hand lock-off then tilt/pan to CU of feet lock-off. And do the moves quickly as possible. I had a difficult time. I felt like my frame would always swim the faster I tried to tilt. Does anyone have any suggestions on how to approach a shot like this? Or tips on whip tilts?  In the end, they opted for inserts.

Thanks!

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  • 2 weeks later...

I've been doing some experimentations. Slower drop time, I brought the battery and monitor in as close as possible to the post (I don't think I've ever done that?) as well as making the post as short as possible (I pretty much always do that) and it made for a much twitchier and responsive rig. I tried with a normal grip as well as a full grip on the gimbal, the full grip allowed for faster moves, but made for landing a solid lock off harder. Anyways, I thought I'd share my thoughts and updates. Very open to any other recommendations or ideas!

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2 hours ago, Kevin Jacobsen said:

Neutral balance could help, maybe skinny up the sled too, I know that would lower pan inertia, but I could see it helping for the tilt. Whip tilts sound scary.

I might try neutral balance and also slower drop times as well. Time to experiment! It is quite the challenge. 

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Hi Kevin,

I had to do that on a project where whip tilts were used as transition between shots (way easier than having to start and stop properly).

Obviously not a problem to go out of a shot as you don't have to land a frame, but another story to go back to a shot.

I think you should extend the batteries and monitor a bit more than usual as this will allow for more pan inertia but will not change you tilt inertia that much.

After practicing for 2 days I have found that to land the frame I did the same thing than for a whip pan. First, stop the rig with a really strong grip, and just before it totally stops relieve the pressure to go to your usual grip.

Also it really help to set your tilt trim to your end frame. As for drop time, I chose to use my usual one, but depending on the lenght of the shot more neutral could help.

 

 

 

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12 hours ago, Cedric Autier said:

Hi Kevin,

I had to do that on a project where whip tilts were used as transition between shots (way easier than having to start and stop properly).

Obviously not a problem to go out of a shot as you don't have to land a frame, but another story to go back to a shot.

I think you should extend the batteries and monitor a bit more than usual as this will allow for more pan inertia but will not change you tilt inertia that much.

After practicing for 2 days I have found that to land the frame I did the same thing than for a whip pan. First, stop the rig with a really strong grip, and just before it totally stops relieve the pressure to go to your usual grip.

Also it really help to set your tilt trim to your end frame. As for drop time, I chose to use my usual one, but depending on the lenght of the shot more neutral could help.

 

 

 

Thanks for the tips! I'll try it out!

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  • 3 months later...
  • 3 weeks later...

A couple of days ago I was asked by the Director to whip from the face of the actor to their hand and back up. The DOP (who has flown Steadicam)  suggested he'd help me by grabbing the bottom of the sled to help get the shot. After two attempts he realised that Steadicam wasn't the tool for the job and he went hand-held! He nailed it first time! The Steadicam is great at getting a bunch of shots; however it is not the  answer for everything and that's a fact!!!

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