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First shoot with a 435


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Hello all

I'm a newbie, just started getting paid as a steadicam op. so far i worked 3 weeks on a documentary, with the Aaton 16mm XTR, and yesterday worked a day on a short film, using the Arri SRIII (walking backwards upstairs. I nearly laughed when they told me the shot) but i just got a call that I might be working tomorrow on a commercial, using the Arri 435.

I'll be using a Master, and I'll have all the equipment I need for this camera, but I was wondering if anyone has any tips or warnings, particularly regarding the difference between 16mm and 35mm.

this is my first post, and it's great to be here.

Mark

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differences between 16mm and 35mm or differences between sr3 and 435?

 

1st. 35mm requires more attention to focus than 16mm, so make sure your 1st knows is experienced. you'll also get shorter mag times in 35mm than in 16mm.

 

sr3 and 435 are both 24 volt systems. you probably used on board batteries with the sr3, but with the 435 you'll need 24 volts pumping through your sled or a battery belt. both cam's use the fischer 2 pin as power.

 

run start /stop cable on the sr3 is 3 pin, on the 435 it's the 11pin fischer.

 

435 is heavier than sr3 and a lot louder.

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The 435 is also a pig for power (amps) so if you are doing any ramping, or high speed shots you'll need more power than the Master Series 12/24 converter can offer you. Unfortunately it won't even start if it doesn't find the power it wants.

 

Lent equip makes an add on battery that couples two 12 volt batteries to give the required amps.

 

 

IAIN BAIRD

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The SR-3 is a sync sound camera. The 435 is a MOS highspeed camera (up to 150 fps).

 

Anyhow,

 

You can use either the 3pin fischer or the 11pin fischer for run. I never used the 11pin, I always use the 3pin.

 

Also you will need to get steadicam mags and the 100% video top, both are essential if you are require to go lowmode.

 

Yes you can fly it without the 100% but don't teach the production that. It flies so much nicer with it. And you will need the Hill Lowmode bracket again to be able to go to lowmode.

 

Yes you can go into lowmode by just inverting the whole camera... I was never a fan of that option with film cameras. Again without the Steadimags (I prefer the Arri steadimags vs. the SL-Cine ones) you will fight the fore and aft film displacement as the camera rolls.

 

 

The 435 with all the steadi aks is the perfect high speed steadicam camera... period.

 

 

Good Luck and fly safe,

 

 

Erwin

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The 435 is also a pig for power (amps) so if you are doing any ramping, or high speed shots you'll need more power than the Master Series 12/24 converter can offer you. Unfortunately it won't even start if it doesn't find the power it wants.

 

IAIN BAIRD

That's not always the case. My inverter will run a 435 @ 150fps. I've done it on many occassions. Some inverters won't do it though. But even when your inverter will power the 435 at high speeds, the problem is that it burns through batteries really fast, and if you only have 4 batteries there is sometimes not enough time for the batteries to get a full charge before they are needed again. I have 6 batteries, which is enough.

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Check in the battery section of this board, there are many posts concerning power and the 435...

 

I had never problems powering the camera with any of my PRO's or my current Ultimate. It's more an issue for single battery systems or systems relying on Hytron 50 batteries.

 

Good Luck,

 

Erwin

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run start /stop cable on the sr3 is 3 pin, on the 435 it's the 11pin fischer.

 

 

Hold on Matt, this is not correct, the 435 has definately a 3pin like the SR3 for start stop.

 

In fact, all new camera's from Arri, the SR3, 435 series, the Arricam series have identical connectors.

 

AND, the 11-pin Fischer that you mention is NOT a start-stop with these camera's but has become mainly a 12 volt power supply connector , a remaining connector from the past, for those 12 volt accessories that are still used on this 24 volt system.

 

Now in some cameras, the start-stop might have been connected in this connector, but that is probably an after-market modification as Arri want us to use the 3-pin for this.

 

The reason why the 11-pin should not be used for start stop is that it can interfere with the electronics from the camera and the video assist (IVS).

The 11-pin is designed for the old style camera's with a permanent on or permanent off switch. The new camera's work on a pulse, a momentary connection from the 24 volts to ground.

 

We (the company I work at) just found out that on our Cam-remote with this old style switch (so a permanent on/off) an SR3 will start running, but the IVS will not notice this, so it doesn't lock (flickerfree) and the display still shows " standby", the feet-counter doesn't change. Releasing the switch from the Cam-remote (to the off-position) turns on the IVS-display, while the camera keeps running. Pressing another time to the ON position on the Cam-remote switches off the camera!

Specially on a remote-head/crane very confusing!.

 

This doesn't happen with all camera's it is probably software related too. Anyway, it is best to use the 3-pin for the modern style camera's.

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Now in some cameras, the start-stop might have been connected in this connector, but that is probably an after-market modification as Arri want us to use the 3-pin for this.

 

I'm pretty sure all 435s come with the 11-pin wired for start/stop from Arri. This is the only modern Arri that has this as far as I know. The stock 535B does not and the Arricams don't have 11-pin connectors unless you use the power breakout box and then I don't believe they are wired for start/stop.

 

Anyway, it is best to use the 3-pin for the modern style camera's.

 

This is a good rule of thumb to follow for the modern Arri cameras.

 

 

-Matt

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