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Posted

I've been testing makohead for a lot of motion applications and I faced a big issue:

 

Does anybody knows how to get rid of high frequency vibration from engines and dirt roads on the makohead operation?

 

 

Tried a few things, but didn't seem to be enough...

 

Thanks for your help!

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Posted

Uh...Jean-Nicolas, not sure if you are being facetious or not. The Steadicam would mount on the Makohead, not the other way around. I've always wanted to try one out for vehicle mounts where you are constantly pitching around (uneven terrain on an ATV, choppy water on a speedboat etc.) as it would greatly minimize the amount of force required to reign in the arm.

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Posted
Uh...Jean-Nicolas, not sure if you are being facetious or not. The Steadicam would mount on the Makohead, not the other way around. I've always wanted to try one out for vehicle mounts where you are constantly pitching around (uneven terrain on an ATV, choppy water on a speedboat etc.) as it would greatly minimize the amount of force required to reign in the arm.

 

 

I totally agree. You could pretty much set the arm and just have to worry about the shot.

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Posted (edited)

I believe high frequency vibration is one reason the Libra and Stabilized Scorpio heads always have a dampener between the head and crane or fixed mount. Here's a link for one: http://www.rocketjapan.com/stabi.html Maybe that would help. Of course it would be quite heavy on the rig in conjuction with the Mako Head. ;)

Edited by Lawrence Karman
Posted

I was just kidding.

 

I never had the chance to try the Makohead either.

 

The dampener that Lawrence pointed out looks like a good solution though (still could be quite heavy on the sled).

 

I wish Bose would start doing stuff for us since there suspension system seams to work pretty well?

http://www.bose.com/controller?event=VIEW_...n_challenge.jsp

 

Like I said before? "I'd still never mount that thing on a sled!" Or maybe with a small 1ccd camcorder?

 

Fly safe! ;)

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Posted
I never had the chance to try the Makohead either.

 

The dampener that Lawrence pointed out looks like a good solution though (still could be quite heavy on the sled).

 

<sinp>

 

Like I said before? "I'd still never mount that thing on a sled!" Or maybe with a small 1ccd camcorder?

 

 

You hard mount the sled to the damper. Not put it on the sled.

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Posted

Jean Nicolas, maybe that is because serious and meaningful questions ask for similar answers............. ????

 

After all, this is a forum with mainly professional people.

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted
Are you using it in conjunction with a Steadicam? If so, are the high frequencies passing through the rig as well?

 

 

Sorry about the late awnsering.... better late then never...

 

anyway, I did not try a steadicam with it... maybe I could adapt. Have you tryied anything like this?

 

Thanks again!

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Posted

As I said I haven't tried the combo myself, have always hoped to be able to but when those types of gigs come up I've met with budget resistance ("doesn't the Steadicam do that by itself? Why do we need the other stabilizer?"). Hopefully I'll be able to make the argument at some point.

 

A gyro stabilized head as Doc mentioned is probably going to be more successful than the Makohead for the kind of vibration you mentioned, or you could try the Steadi/Mako combo as the Steadicam is quite good at dampening high frequency vibrations (although sometimes a few get through). Of course there is an added cost for both concepts as you need a tech with the head, and a skilled operator with the Steadicam.

Posted

We got this week that lens adapter from canon that cancel high frequency vibrations. I hope it works well together with Makohead.

 

Anyways, I´ll try to adapt the steadicam support to the head and run a few tests... I will let you guys know about the results.

 

Thanks for the help.

 

[]´s

Posted

Hi Lucas,

 

The Mako should have come with a box that you plug into the x and y axis seperately. You can adjust the sensitivity and response times with that. We had it for a few days for a boat to boat shoot, and found some good combinations. i think it was a slow sensitivity to cancel out the vibrations, but a fast response time to fix it.

 

Make sense?

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