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SK1 and SK2 - All about


Nikk Hearn-Sutton SOC

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Thanks Charles, I believe the one I just purchased off of ebay is an SK (the weight limits indicate so) just wondering if there is something I should be looking to watch out for with the SK over the SK2. Excited to begin my journey through "steadiland"!

 

Thanks for the info

Mike

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Hello Michael,

 

There is not much difference between the SK & SK2.

 

The only change between the SK & The SK2 is the location of the articulated section of the arm. The SK2 has this section closest to the body. Below is a photo of the SK2.

 

SK2

 

Everything else is exactly the same.

 

If you purchased an early model SK you need to check one item on the arm. On the articulated section there should be a steel plate at the end of the can, opposite the pulley. This plate is held in place by multiple screws. If this plate and screws are not on your arm, you need to have it installed.

 

If this plate is not installed and one of the cables breaks, the spring will shoot out of the arm and fly across the set. Not a good thing for anyone or anything standing in its path or your reputation for that matter.

 

I hope this helps.

 

James

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Hi James, I have not received the SK yet, but from the photo on ebay the arm is closest to the body (the springed section?), he said he purchased this steadicam new in 97'. Real new to terminolgy, when you say articulating, are you talking the arm with the springs in it?

 

Thanks Mike

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Michael,

 

I' assume you bought the SK on ebay for a little over $4000 last week. Yes, this one was listed as a Steadicam SK, but from the little bit of research I did (consisting of calling Robert Luna, who was the arm guy at CP for years - now freelance) it seems that this is a SK2. I believe the only difference is in the arm, but what has already been said about the sled may be true as well. The early arms (SK) had the dummy section of the arm (no springs) towards the vest; the later ones (after '95 I think he said, presumably the SK2) had the dummy section on the outside, by the sled. This is what the picture showed on ebay, so I think you are good to go. I was shocked when I saw this system at $2200 with 24 hours to go - I was thinking "that is what accessories cost; not Steadicams." Anyway, I was considering a bid on it to use it as a running rig, but alas the price went up (still a good deal).

 

If you ever want to put titanium springs in it or add a second arm section, I suggest you contact Robert Luna. 323-938-5659

 

Enjoy

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Hi Alec,

 

The one I purchased was for 5200, the other SK on ebay went for about 4000, that one had no sled and had a dual arm? You are probably talking about the one I purchased, it was pretty low with 24 hrs still left, bidders use special software to make bids now, they don't even have to watch the item, the software starts bidding in increments a few seconds before the end of the auction (keeps people out of a bidding frenzy) so it stays real low for a long time. I was dreaming it would stay low, but I knew it wouldn't. I just picked an amount I could live with and made my bid. Was the picture on ebay of a gentleman with glasses? If it was then it is a comfort to know I have the better one. Thanks for the tip for the titanium springs.

 

 

Thanks

Mike

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Well I am having a cage made to fit my vx2000 on my SK, I made a temorary weight plate to get up and running, my problem is I have a 17" plate (camera on one end and wieghts on the other. The unit with camera weighs about 15 pounds (I wonder how they came up with 8-19 pounds for a camera weight ( it seems impossible to use a camera weighing 8 pounds), I have to move my gimble down pretty low to get my 2 second drop (the top of the gimbal is 3 1/2 inches down from the mounting plate, it is balanced for/aft and side to side, It doesn't feel balanced to me. Anyone balance vx2000 or equivalent on an SK? I noticed on the Tiffen site, the SK photo of a woman using the SK with the gimbal placed way down

Is this ideal?

 

 

Thanks for the Help

 

Mike

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Frezzi MiniFill? I'm assuming that's a light? I would be very wary of running any kind of light off a 4 pin Hirose. Those are pretty thin little wire's going to that connector. Certainly not intended for any kind of real amperage draw.

 

What are the amp specs for the light? What are the specs for that connector?

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That light usually takes a 50w bulb, which means it's drawing just over 4 amps at 12v. That more than most video cameras which are generally more like 25-35w, but around the same as a Sony F900. The connector should be able to handle it as long as your batteries and sled can. But how are you powering the camera?

 

Fred Davis can cetainly make you this cable to whatever length you'd like.

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Thanks Gentlemen, I am using the battery from the monitor to power the light, the camera has it's own battery

What camera are you using and what type of batteries? Anton/Bauer and some of the other mounts have a 2-pin "D"-shaped PowerTap that draws directly from the camera battery. I would try to power this way instead of from the sled if possible. This is the standard way of powering on-camera lights. Most pro cameras also have a 4-pin Hirose 12v out similar to the one on your sled. But the one on the camera is meant to power small devices such as a wireless mike receiver, so don't try to power your light from it or you'll burn something out (expensive repair).

 

Also to note, Frezzi makes various adapter cables for pretty cheap. But the advantage of using Fred instead of going to Frezzi is that he can make it to an exact custom length and uses the highest quality components.

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