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Teletest for Master Series


Matt Temple

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I use the Teletest monitor on my master for a year now. The monitor is OK, but already there are better (and more expensive) available. For the money it is a great choice and reliable.

 

Teletest makes a bracket for it but it is not good enough. There is too much vibration in it, I ended up with a construction where I only use the first part (square block with hole to mount on the spigot where the master monitor was) and have made a new thing with a heavy duty Ball-head (Velbon)

 

Here is a picture

 

Rob van Gelder, Bangkok, Thailand

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Hi Paul,

 

Yes, there is a lot of "home-made" stuff on that Master.

 

In front of the rig you will find a Canon MV5mc miniDv camera, it works on the 7,5 volts output that the sled supplies normally.

Even with the remote control at the side it reacts to it, very convenient.

 

In front of the recorder is my conversion of the old IIIa electronic level, with the LED readout velcroed on the monitor.

 

The sled has several power options, on the back 2x 14,4 batteries that can be switched to 14,4 or 28.8 volts.

This is normally for camera and follow focus (Preston)

I have a 28 to 12 volt converter (100 watts) that can be used to power the video stuff on the sled when I want to use the Preston on 24 volts but with a 12 volt camera. Not shown on the rig now, it will be in front of the lower part of the base.

 

Behind the monitor another brick (14.4V) that powers the monitor, transmitter, recorder and other video stuff if needed.

 

So I can use: 1 battery (14 volts), 2 batteries (14/28 volts) or 3 batteries (14/28 volts)

 

Rob van Gelder, Bangkok, Thailand

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Woah, your rig is wild!

Thanks for that pic, it's worth a thousand words! I'm inspired.

I'm also considering using the Transvideo Cinemonitor III as an addition to my Master, and they actually have a bracket to suit. Anyone have an opinion on the Cine III for this situation?

Matt.

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As you can see on the picture I am fiddling with all kinds of anti-glare thingies for my LCD. That´s always a major ploblem, only the Hummingburg has a build-in solution for that, but at a price!

 

On the first picture I use a matte black foam board and at the right angle it does something, but not enough.

So now I made a kind of "Hoodman", as you can buy for monitors.

Made from the hollow core plastic sheets, almost weightless but thanks to its construction rigid.

The top-plate can be removed, if needed. It also houses the Led-level.

 

It gives a bigger profile too, so a little bit more influenced by wind, but a normal tube-monitor is similar in size.

 

Now I know that some other operators will doubt that it works but I tried it in full sun and also with white overcast clouds, that´s the worst.

It increases the contrast considerably, at certain angles you can get a glare again halfway the screen but at that moment the rig is already in a very strange position to the body, something you want to avoid anyway.

 

Yes, it will block a part of the screen sometimes, but again, the head-body-rig-position is not really comfortable at that moment.

 

This works for me, most of the time. And it is a lot cheaper than a Hummingbird!

 

Rob van Gelder, Bangkok, Thailand

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Hi guys!

 

Here' another highly customized Master with my 3 batt system and the perfect adaptation for almost any lcd (almost all things made by baer-bel/germany)

 

 

Guido "always customizing" Lux

 

 

PS: Btw the Hummingbird is woth every cent! It's perfect!

post-21-1093102445_thumb.jpg

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Guido, can you get dynamic balance with your rig?

I found that I could not get that with 2 batteries at the back and 1 on front, or the converter instead of that 1 battery.

 

That´s why I had to place one battery behind the monitor, now it balances nicely.

 

I see that you have a Chrosziel frame generator in there, was the Master not equipped with one?

 

Rob van Gelder, Bangkok, Thailand

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Rob, it was equipped with one but not with a bubble!

In order to use the electronic bubble(which I really like) from chrosziel you have to have their frameliner!

Oh, and to get dynamic balance I put the nice big black steel weight under the monitor!

That's my way to make it work!

But my master is hanging on my office wall.It's only my backup now!

 

 

 

Guido "hope I never need backup" Lux

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Hey Rob,

 

Can you tell me how you made the velbond mount. I've bought a teletest but as previously mentioned, the bracket they make just ain't good enough so I've never really used it on the rig. But if you could share your tooling experience I'll try and make one to. I've got some down time so just trying to fill my days up!

 

Cheers

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Hi Rich,

the bracket from Teletest has this little square metal piece that fits the spigot of the Master monitor support. It is mounted with 4 M3 screws on the flimsy black U-shaped support of the Teletest bracket.

 

I used this to mount it on a piece of Aluminium where I mount my Led-level sensor.

On this aluminium plate another little plate is fixed with a 3/4" screw and this attaches to the Velbon Ballhead. I wil make a close-up picture of it next time.

I t took some fiddling with spacer rings and different screws but now it is a rigid set-up.

 

It´s a special ballhead, one with a square mounting surface for th monitor (stills-camera officially of course) so a good and wide support. I will supply the part no. if I can find it.

 

Hope this helps, picture is coming, next time....

 

Rob van Gelder, Bangkok, Thailand

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  • 3 months later...
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As I have seen it, only for the Master, but you can contact them and ask?

 

Thanks Rob, I had contacted them prior to posting but all they could show me was a low-res image of their "standard" steadicam mounting bracket. Couldnt tell enough from their picture.

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